The Sport of Bouldering

Note: If you’re looking for bouldering tips to climb better, click here, it’s the best training guide for beginner to intermediate climbers. You’ll learn proper technique, strength training specifically for climbing, and the science behind becoming a more efficient climber.

It seems like everyone wants to ride the “I Live Healthy” bandwagon. All of a sudden people have been trading their usual food fares to organic meals, or if they become hardcore, switching to a vegetarian is also possible.

But for some health conscious who can’t afford a sudden change of routine, engaging in sports and hobbies is another option. In fact, there is a significant rise of demand for centers that offer them; and one of the fastest rising pastimes among active aficionados is the activity called bouldering.

What is Bouldering?

Bouldering is a form of rock climbing that started as an indoor activity. It is considered as the safest among the climbing category because it is only limited to about 15 feet above the ground or so although if you include topping out, then it can be a bit higher.  The main goal is to reach the top using a specific route, which is referred as “problems”. The difficulty level can range from V0 up to V16, which is currently the highest and hardest.

Climbers can perform this without any rope, but for safety precautions the entire ground for indoor gyms is usually covered with padded cushions. For extra safety on certain landing spots, a bouldering pad or crash pad is used. However, some want to take it to another level and do “free-soloing”. In this case, the climber’s altitude can range from 7 meters and beyond, and will encounter longer and more difficult problems without the use of a rope.

If you’re planning to try this sport, be sure to have the following equipment before going to the gym or bouldering site. First on the list is a loose powdered chalk held in a chalk bag. It would be a great advantage if your hands are not sweaty, but even if they’re not you still need it to keep your hands dry while climbing.

Aside from having comfortable clothes, you also need to wear climbing shoes for better traction and edging capabilities. The crash pads are also a must to make sure you get support in case of a fall if you plan to do this outdoors. Another item that should go in your list is a sports tape. This will become handy in covering your cuts and blisters. If you plan to climb at a climbing gym, the chalk and shoes can be rented.

The Past and Future of Bouldering

Bouldering’s popularity can be rooted not only for its physical challenges but also for its mental ordeal. And for someone who seeks to enhance and maintain a focused mind, agile physique, and fit mentality, this sport is definitely for you.

Records have shown that bouldering started and first spread around the United Kingdom, France, and Italy in the late 1800s. It was first documented by a British engineer and innovative climber, Oscar Eckenstein. At the beginning, it was just a playful activity for climbers. But when John Gill, a mathematician and amateur gymnast found the challenge and movement of it enjoyable, he became an advocate to finally make it as a legitimate sport and to not restrict its area.

It may have come to the United States in the 1950s but many years have passed and bouldering is still not getting much attention to become a mainstream sport. Yet there are news and much optimism that it will be added into the 2020 Olympics. If that will happen, it can hopefully bring more exposure and recognition to this old-time, yet refreshing activity. Check out a bouldering gym near you to find out just how fun it is.

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Sasha DiGiulian Interview

This month’s email interview is with elite climber, Sasha DiGiulian. At only 19 years old, she’s currently the US Female National Champion and the winner of the 2011 IFSC World Championships in the female overall category. Back in October of 2011, she was the 1st American female climber to send a 5.14d (9a), something only 2 other females climbers in the world have done.

“While no American woman has climbed 9a, I think that maybe not enough have tried.”

Below is the video of that ascent.

Pure Imagination

The Interview

Q: Was it your goal from the beginning to be one of the best climbers or did it just sort of happen?

I have always just wanted to push my abilities and see what I can do. This has been an incredible journey and I feel like it is just beginning. Not to sound cliche, but my passion for climbing just keeps increasing!

Q: What do you think sets you apart from most other climbers who’ve been climbing for years?

I think that climbing is a very mental sport and in order to excel and push yourself you need to see beyond perceived limits. I am still working on this. Believing in yourself is more important than any special work out routine you can do. I have also been climbing for 12 years:)

Q: Is there a specific routine you do to warm up before climbing?

Not really, but I do see the value in warming up in order to prevent injuries. Starting slow and working your way up is important though I sometimes, especially outside, skip this step. This is not good – you do not want to stretch or strain cold muscles.

Q: What typically goes through your mind when you’re preparing for a difficult route?

The sequence of the climb. Also, maybe a song will be playing in the back of my head as I climb… There is no room for negative thoughts so you want to channel out any doubt of doing a route before you get on it for the send-go.

Q: Once you’re on a route, what is your mind normally focused on?

The individual movements. This mental focus is what is so beautiful and aesthetic about climbing in my opinion. Climbing takes my mind away to this whole other realm where it is just me and the movement in front of me.

Q: Besides climbing, do you do any type of specific training or workouts to improve your performance?

I do run for cross-training. Generally I run about 6-8 miles 4 days a week when I am in routine/not on a climbing trip.

Q: What does your diet consist of?

Hmm.. whatever I feel like eating I guess. I’m a big believer in a wide variety of foods, in moderation. I have a big sweet tooth so instead of blocking it out which would be no fun at all, I just try and moderate it. Having 2 cookies for dessert is generally healthier for you than having 6. Though I guess everyone has to have exceptions…:) I also love snacking on trail mix and one of my favorite foods are almonds.. chocolate or cinnamon covered preferably.

Q: If you could go back to when you first started climbing and wanted to get to your current level a lot more quickly, what would you do differently?

Stop complaining or making up excuses for getting on something challenging and just go for it. I generally did a decent job with this, but I definitely could have been more forward with pushing myself.

Q: Since you’re pretty well-known in the climbing community, do you feel any added pressure to perform well during comps or even a filming of your climb? If so, how do you deal with it?

I think always just having fun with your friends and taking the ride as a journey. People asking for pictures with me or autographs is always a compliment, and that’s how you have to see it. Finding out that I have inspired someone will always make my day.

Q: Do you see a possibility of entering the 2020 Olympics if climbing is approved?

Absolutely! I’m currently an athlete representative on the IFSC-Board so we are working on achieving this goal.

Bonus, non-serious question from a member after watching your Pure Imagination climb

Q: Would you ever date a guy who can’t even climb a V1?

Haha, I would. Actually, it may be better for me in some ways. Some guys can get oddly competitive, which I kind of experienced before. That’s not cool at all. I think in a relationship you should be supportive of one-another and you can always learn from someone else’s characteristics.

You could read more about Sasha on her blog at http://www.sasha-digiulian.com/blog

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Paul Robinson Interview

This month’s awesome interview is with elite climber, Paul Robinson. Paul has been featured in various professional climbing videos and is one of the top climbers in the world, having completed countless boulder problems ranging from V11-V15. As you will see in the interview below, he is a pretty inspiring person. Below are a couple of videos of him in action.


Paul’s Climbing Mentality

Paul in the Dosage V Trailer


The Interview

Q: What’s your motivation for climbing?

I just love it. I love doing new things and how unique each climb is.

Q: What is your big dream or goal in terms of climbing?

I want to make a mark in bouldering by pushing the sport to new levels and discovering climbs off the beaten path. Dave, Fred and Chris all pushed the sport and made a huge mark which I really respect. I want to continue to push myself and improve as a climber- there is always room for improvement.

Q: Besides climbing, do you have any type of training regimen to improve your climbing that you can share?

Not really! Sometimes after not climbing inside for awhile Ill feel the need to do chin ups or campus, or if I’m going to compete I definitely will train hard in a gym- climb longer hours, push ups, chins ups, campus. But I don’t compete much anymore. My main thing is I try to just climb all the time, never take off more than one day in a row if I can help it and when I climb, I climb until I’m exhausted and can’t progress anymore- I don’t stop if I’m still feeling strong.

Q: What usually goes through your mind as you’re preparing to take on a tough problem?

It depends. If it’s a repeat of a problem, I know its possible for me to do it so I get super psyched to start working it. If it’s an FA, it’s a long process of figuring out if its even possible and then figuring out the best way to get up!

Q: What usually goes through your mind after failing over and over again to send a problem?

It motivates me to continue trying. I keep a positive attitude and believe anything is possible with enough time, effort and prime temps!

Q: What do you think it is that got you to be one of the top climbers in the world?

My psyche? But I guess there are a lot of psyched climbers. Luck? my positive attitude towards climbing? Whatever it is that got me to where I am today I feel very fortunate and grateful.

Q: What is your proudest moment in your climbing career so far?

I have a lot I guess but one of my proudest moments would be when I first saw myself in a Dosage film.

Q: How does it feel to be sort of a celebrity in the climbing world? Any added pressure during comps?

I guess it’s cool. I remember being younger looking up to professional climbers and its a cool feeling to be one now. There is definitely more pressure now then years ago when I was just getting into it. Some people handle the pressure really well and thrive off of it- I don’t really think I am one of those people. I climb my best with a few of my friends or with my girlfriend because there is no pressure, its just about having fun. I don’t do many competitions anymore because I don’t enjoy the pressure or the scene in general.

When I was in college I didn’t have much time for climbing outside so I was more in competition mode and did better at the whole scene but now that I have all the time in the world I don’t feel like doing it anymore. I use indoor climbing as a means of training or as a way to climb if I’m in an area with no outdoor rock or bad weather. I am happiest outside so that is where I climb mostly these days.

Q: What advice would you give to climbers who want to bring their game to the next level?

Always keep a positive attitude. Surround yourself with people that motivate you and support you doing what you love (climbing). Make sure you also have some balance in your life so you don’t sweat the small stuff. I think being in college, painting, living far away from climbing as a kid, and having many non-climbing friends helped me keep perspective.

I never felt too overwhelmed or pressured and always realized there was more out there. So stay motivated and psyched, but make sure to keep a balance- which will in turn help you to stay motivated and psyched. Climb because you love it. Push yourself for you, not anyone else. Always climb, whether its inside or outside, its helps keep your strength, your technique, and your head in line. You don’t always have to be training or projecting, but just climbing year round helps you stay in the game.

Q: What do you think the chances are of climbing being part of the Olympics in 2020?

It seems like there is a pretty decent shot, its down to climbing and 3 or 4 other sports right? I’m not sure what will be the deciding factor but it will definitely be a difficult process of figuring out the best way to set up the competition. In most other Olympic sports the athletes get to practice a routine or time themselves on a specific skill and then during the Olympics its about who does that routine the best or who does that skill the fastest- besides speed climbing, climbing is not like that, so it will be interesting to see what they come up with.

You can read more about Paul at his blog: http://p-d-robinson.tumblr.com/

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Vikki Weldon Interview

This month, we’re excited to be interviewing Vikki Weldon, an elite climber from Canada. Hopefully, this will help inspire more female climbers to join this awesome sport. But first, check out these videos of her climbing.


Some clips from the 2007 Canadian Nationals where Vikki takes 1st place.

Video of Vikki along with fellow climbers having fun on the rocks.
Watch her send “See Spot Run” at the 7:05 mark.
(Video by Sonnie Trotter)

See Vikki climbing after the 2:05 minute mark.
(Video by Jamie Chong)

The Interview

Q: How long have you been climbing and what motivates you to climb?

I have been climbing for about 14 years, since I was 9 years old! I began climbing because my older siblings were doing it and I was of the mindset that anything my big brother and sister were doing was the coolest. Luckily my siblings have good taste in sports, and I discovered something special.

There is so much that motivates me to climb. I’m motivated by the endless opportunity for discovering what I am capable of. I am motivated by the amazing people within the climbing community, and by the beautiful places that I have travelled to and dream to travel to.

Q: Have you been through a phase where you just didn’t feel like climbing anymore? If so, what/how did you get pass that phase?

I go through that phase at least once a year. It occurs at the end of a period where I have poured a lot of emotional and physical energy into a goal. It’s usually at the end of a competition season, or at the end of an outdoor season when snow and rain forces me back to the gym. I’ve learned over time that the best thing to do when this happens is to not fight the feeling. I turn to other forms of activities, whether it is running or yoga, and I wait for my psych to return. If I climb when I’m not psyched, I get injured. It’s my body and my mind not-too-politely telling me that I’m not ready.

Q: What is the highest level of bouldering and sport climbing problem you have finished?

My hardest boulder problem is World Worm Cave Low, a spectacular V10 in Squamish (see picture at bottom of pag). My hardest sport climb is 5.13d. I’ve completed two routes at this grade, the most recent being Endless Summer at Acephale, a limestone crag in the Canadian Rockies.

Q: Do you have any work out routines that you do on the side to help improve your climbing besides climbing that you can share?

I don’t have any specific training routines outside of climbing, but I recently I have gotten into running (I ran my first half marathon in October!), and I have found that this has greatly improved my recovery time and endurance in climbing. Similarly, in the summer, I hike a lot to get to the crags in the Rockies. I find that the better my cardio fitness is, the better and harder I am able to climb.

Q: How many days a week do you climb and for how long each time?

When I am training indoors regularly, I will normally climb 3-4 days a week for 2-3 hours at a time. I’ve found that any more than that and I risk an injury (I am quite injury prone for a climber)

Q: Of all of the outdoor locations that you have climbed, which one is your favorite?

My favourite place in the entire world to climb is Acephale. It’s a small limestone crag close to Canmore, Alberta in the Rockies. I grew up climbing at this crag, and I love the approach, the rock and the people that climb there. It’s my home.

Q: What do you do when you’re not climbing?

I’m currently 2/3 of the way through a degree in nursing. It takes up the majority of my life at the moment. When I can, I squeeze in running, yoga, and normal life affairs. Climbing is my life passion, but I have learned that maintaining a balance with all my other interests and passions is essential for happiness and sanity!

Q: What is your proudest accomplishment in terms of climbing so far?

That’s a tough answer, because every new send and accomplishment is my proudest. As of right now, it’s my send of Endless Summer this past summer. This route has been a dream of mine since I was 13 years old. It was the name that inspired me most, and as it turns out, it is one of the best hard routes I’ve ever completed.

Q: Any advice or tips for female climbers who want to improve their climbing?

Whether you’re female, male or anything in between, the best way to improve your climbing is to find what excites and motivates you. If you want to gain experience, go travel, get outside and put in the time and effort to achieve your goals. If you want to train, find a motivated partner or a training program that works for you. There are so many resources available for climbing training these days, all you need is time, motivation and a pair of rock shoes.

Q: Do you have any rituals right before getting on the rock at competitions? (self talk, visualization, listening to music, etc.)

At competitions, I am always most successful when I am able to clear from my mind the end result (will I win, will I screw this up, will so-so and so beat me?), and instead focus on my happy place. I always visualize in my mind a time in my life when I was happy and at peace. When I am able to regain that mindset and carry it with me as I begin climbing, I am more often than not pleased with my performance.

Q: What are your thoughts about climbing possibly being in the 2020 Olympics? Do you think it will happen?

This is an exciting new opportunity for the sport of climbing. I come from a competitive background, so I would love to see climbing as a part of the Olympics. The climbing community is taking this opportunity seriously, so I feel there is a good chance it will happen. Fingers crossed!

You can read more about Vikki on her personal blog: http://vikkiweldon.com

Worm World Cave Low (V10) in Squamish. Photo by Keith Allen

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Sean McColl Interview

Here is an interview with Sean McColl, an elite climber from Canada. But first, check out these 2 videos of him in action.


Sean sending Dream Catcher:

Sean taking 1st place at the 2011 ABS 12 National Championships:

The Interview

Q: How long have you been climbing and what motivates you to climb?

I’ve been climbing since I was 10 years old, and I’m now 23 years old. I started climbing with my family and they still all climb to this day. My motivation to climb is the competition and my love for it. Ever since I started climbing, I’ve loved doing it, and I love that it lets me travel around the world with it as well.

Q: What is the highest level of bouldering and lead climbing problem have you finished?

I have redpointed a few V14’s including (Mandala SDS, Goldfish Trombone and Aslan). For routes, the hardest grade I’ve redpointed is 5.14d (Dreamcatcher and Punt-X)

Q: What is your greatest climbing accomplishment?

I think my greatest climbing accomplishment is coming 5th in lead, and 6th in boulder at the 2009 World Championships in Qinghai China. With my 5th and 6th and a 43rd in lead, it earned me the overall rankings victory and my first World Championship Gold Medal.

Q: What does your diet consist of?

It varies a lot. Generally I eat lots of carbs after training and during the summer I eat a lot of pasta, rice and soup. I love eating candy and drinking pop although I sometimes cut that out of my diet before big competitions.

Q: Do you have any work out routines that you do on the side to help improve your climbing besides climbing that you can share?

I train a variety of different things, sometimes I do 25-50 move circuits and I repeat it 5-8 times in 2 hours with good rests. Other times I try to do all the boulder problems in the gym for volume in the shortest amount of time.

During my “offseason”, I condition at least once a week and do ab exercises for at least an hour. I also do a lot of conditioning which includes rings, finger board, hit strips and campus board.

Anytime I’m on the wall climbing, or doing a form of cardio, I can consider it like training. Even if you’re doing easier moves, you do more of them, and then on days where I do harder moves, I probably end up doing less of them.

Q: How many days a week do you climb and for how long each time?

During my offseason, I train around 3 days a week and try to do cardio once a week and during peak season, I try to train 4 days a week with a few days of cardio in between or on climbing days. Generally if I’m training in a gym, I climb for 2 or 3 hours and when I’m climbing outside, it can last up to a full 8 hour day.

Q: What is the most breath taking place to climb in your opinion?

I love climbing anywhere where I feel welcome. I’ve gotten to climb all over the world. There are beautiful crags everywhere in the world. There are too many super nice places to name them all.

Q: Any advice or tips for aspiring climbers who want to get to the professional level?

Get a few good friends that you love to climb with and train with them. It’s almost impossible to train by yourself and the motivation you can gain by training in groups is phenomenal.

You can read more about Sean and his climbing adventures on his blog at SeanMccoll.com

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How Many Days a Week Should You Climb?

This is a question many beginners ask. I know I did when I first started. From my own experience and from talking to some of the pros, it seems like 3-4 times or every other day is the sweet spot. Going more than that might be too stressful on your fingers and going less than that might result in slower progress. Obviously, how many times you climb a week also depends on your schedule. You may or may not have already noticed that taking too much time off can make your skills suffer. However, sometimes, it’s good to take a few weeks off especially if you hit a plateau and start to lose your motivation and become increasingly frustrated.

Top climbers like Sasha DiGulian adds in running as well as a way to keep fit as well as build endurance. Most climbers don’t weight train so their workouts basically consist of climbing and related exercises like pull ups, working on the hang boards, and circuit training.

Three times a week might be perfect for you or it might be too little or too much. The best thing to do is to look at your results. If you find that a day of rest just isn’t enough and your fingers are still hurting from the previous session, then lower the number of days you climb. Also notice how stronger or weaker you are when climbing routes. Often times, not resting enough will make your climbing suffer but on the other hand, having too many days in between climbing sessions will do the same thing.

How long you climb during your climbing sessions is important as well. Some people climb 4 or more hours while others climb just 2 hours. It really depends on how hard you climb, how much rest you take in between climbs, and what your endurance level is.

If you’re constantly climbing and only resting a few minutes in between climbs, you’ll reach the point of fatigue a lot faster than someone who rests way longer. In fact, try this experiment. The next time you go climb, bring a stop watch and see just how much time you actually spend climbing compared to resting. For those who climb 4 hours, they might be surprised to find that they’re actually only on the wall for less than an hour. I tried this myself and during a 4 hour session, I was on the wall for about 30 minutes! Most of the time was spent sitting on the floor, studying my route, watching other climbers, and talking to friends. Obviously, the longer your breaks are, the longer your climbing sessions will be.

So in reality, you can climb 7 days a week if you’re spending most of your time sitting.

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